As opposed to the subdued LFW of the SS23 shows last year, London Fashion Week explodes with activity over the course of its five days beginning this Friday. For AW23, designers such as Molly Goddard, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, and many more will showcase their wares in one of 104 physical displays or 41 digital showcases. Some of the new faces this year are Sinead Gorey, Talia Byre, and Tove.
The British Fashion Council will be holding several workshops on zero-waste production and necessary developments in the fashion industry alongside designer Q&A sessions and citywide celebrations. This LFW promises (ostensibly) another step towards a greener, more conscious industry by utilising their digital presence in catwalks and ensuring their sustainability ethos is met.
Changes at Burberry can be expected as a result of Daniel Lee’s arrival.
Most people are waiting for Daniel Lee’s show because he is going to reimagine Burberry, a storied British fashion house. The heritage label appeared to be lost under former creative director Ricardo Tisci. A departure from the minimalist wave that saw most luxury brands strip back on their traditional branding flamboyance, Lee joined the brand in October from Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta and is already utilising Burberry’s historic role in Cool Britannia, evident in his latest campaign adorned with fresh young talent and the stamp of the old logo. On February 20th, Lee will make his runway debut in his new role.
Aesthetics in the Far East
The talent incubator is supporting this to help spread the word about the most promising up-and-coming designers. The group, led by designer and editor Lulu Kennedy, will showcase the work of three up-and-coming designers: Standing Ground, Karoline Vitto, and the debut collection of Johanna Parv. Standing Ground’s Michael Stewart will provide billowing gowns, Vitto’s emphasis is on plus-size dresses and separates, and Central Saint Martins alum Parv is all about the athletic look. Previous graduates of Fashion East include Craig Green, Chet Lo, Matty Bovan, Stefan Cooke, and more, so when the three new designers take to the runway on Friday, they will be riding a wave of expectation and anticipation.
Favorites Among Fashionistas
If you are a dedicated fashionista, you should mark these shows in your calendar. From Ahluwalia, who will show on the 18th of February, to JW Anderson, who will show on the 19th, to S.S.Daley, who won the LVMH Prize in 2022 and is a favourite of Harry Styles, each of these designers deserves attention in their own right. Saul Nash, winner of the 2022 Woolmark Prize, will also be performing on Monday; don’t miss his show, which is sure to showcase both his choreographic and other talents.
The theme for Moncler’s debut LFW is “Art of Genius.”
On the same day as Burberry, Moncler will make their debut at LFW at Olympia London. In 2023, the company plans to launch an entirely new fashion direction with groundbreaking new ideas and collections. Palm Angels, Mercedes-Benz, Adidas Originals, and Roc Nation by Jay-Z are among the companies participating in the spectacular physical display. Guests will also be able to view pieces from the collaborative Moncler + Rick Owens collection.
To all the fashionistas out there, please be vigilant…
There are 47 catwalks, making it difficult to remember all of the designers we should be following. Both Dilara Findikoglu and Matty Bovan, who will be presenting on Friday and Saturday, respectively, made it onto our shortlist of impressive designers. Harri, a newcomer and London College of Fashion alum (he designed Sam Smith’s Brits outfit), and Connor Ives, whose focus on his own American identity captures the story of his move to London for school in 2014, will both be showing at this LFW.